Faux Shell Chandelier - Part 3

In this installment we'll discuss how the base was created, and attach it to the rest of the chandelier.  In case you missed the posts, here are links to Part 1 and Part 2.

The base is formed from a piece of sheet metal (16 gauge, steel), some aluminum angle stock, and a handful of machines screws, washers and nuts.

First, we cut the aluminum into 4 pieces, and beveled the ends like the sides of a picture frame so they can fit together nicely into a square.  The angles don't need to be perfect, as they will be hidden from view, but it is good to be close, just in case.

The four aluminum pieces laid out on our stainless sheet metal. 

Once they are arranged on the plate, drill the holes for the machine screws.  You can use some double sided tape to hold everything in place while doing this.  Then bolt the pieces together using machine screws and nuts.  We opted for some screws with a hex head (rather than a screwdriver slot) to give it a better look).

One side attached, three others pre-drilled.

For attaching the base to the rest of the chandelier, we used a pair of aluminum tubes.  Drill a pair of holes into the support rods into the metal strips that are attached to the top of the basket.  Then drill a similarly spaced pair of holes into the base.  These holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the tubing.

See the holes in the middle of the strips?  The holes in the sheet metal base need to be the same distance apart.

Finally, we'll need to drill some holes for mounting the base to the ceiling.  Most electrical boxes for ceiling fixtures have a pair of screws in opposite corners.  You'll want to carefully measure the layout of those and transfer it to your base.  We drilled 4 holes in a square pattern, and put dummy screws in two of them to even out the look.  You'll need some very long screws for the other two that can reach the threading on the electrical box.  You'll also want to be sure to use washers on these for extra support.

See the 4 screws in the square shape in the middle?  Two support the chandelier and 2 are fakes.  

There are several options of attaching the final pieces together.  We used a die set to cut threads into the ends of the aluminum tubes.  Then the tubes were inserted into the holes we previously drilled, and large nuts were used to secure it.  As an alternative, you could make a few cuts into the end of the tubes, about 1/2" deep.  Then after inserting the tubes into the holes, you can bend the tabs outward like a flower to secure it. Once the base is attached to the ceiling gravity will keep everything tight.  This allows for some movement in case the chandelier is bumped which could reduce the risk of injury to whoever bumped it and to the chandelier itself.

Everything painted and assembled

Once you have the basket attached to the ceiling base with the tubes it is time to get everything painted. We used a bronze spray paint to match the hardware in our house. Most of the basket itself will not be visible so you don't have to go too crazy making sure everything matches exactly.

After the paint is dry all you need to do is run the wire up through one of the tubes.  You should have at least 6 inches extra at the top, and a foot would be even better (you can always trim it down while installing it).

Wiring going up the tube...

Extra wire coming out the top.  

 In Part 4 I will talk about adding the shells to the base, which is quite easy, and finally adding the finishing touches and installing the chandelier in your room.